He came into his own in 2015 as the winner of the National Grill Competition at San Sebastian Gastronomika, but there is much more to Jon Ayala. Alongside his sister Arantza working the floor, he runs the Asador Laia restaurant in Hondarribia, a temple of grilled fare and maturing. Not for nothing did US chain Bloomberg feature Laia as one of the world's 30 best grill spots.

Aiala is in charge of fire and grilling, bringing out the freshness in the food - mostly meat, but also fish, vegetables and fruit. The fare at Laia Erretegia is rounded off by Arantza's management of one Gipuzkoa's most elegant and well-stocked cellars.